I didn’t think that Indian restaurants did fine dining in the Michelin star style, I have eaten amazing food at Benares, Atul Kuchar's old restaurant and loved it; he is a master of spicing and his sea bass with a curry leaf sauce was so delicate yet so full of flavour, the sauce rich and flavourful but never overpowering the fish.
Opheem was a whole new level. It is an elegant, modern, stylish restaurant set in a big space that gives a great sense of luxury. We sat in the very comfortable bar area and were warmly welcomed by staff who knew who we were and that we were there to celebrate two birthdays. In a small open kitchen two chefs were devoted to making canapés ‘gifts from the kitchen’ each one more delicious than the last. We all loved the mango tuile with chutney, burnt lettuce and chilli - a leaf shaped crisp tuile with sweet and tangy chutney, next a zap of chilli that had been dry ice frozen into a tiny pearl. In fairness we all loved everything!
All that we ate was a delight, with a layering of spice and texture that led your taste buds where the chef wanted you. Each dish was thought out and intentional, each course and wine pairing built on the last with not one dud or filler. You got the feeling that Aktar Islam and co had sat and eaten this meal with the wine flight several times, scrupulously analysing every mouthful, flavour and experience the diner would have. The menu was understated - Pau, the bread course was a soft delicious loaf accompanied by a keema butter and a lamb soup that was drool worthy, sublime and unexpected.
It is a Michelin starred restaurant that truly merits both of its stars giving its customers very sophisticated cooking and service. We left full but not stuffed, well oiled but not stocious - very well managed by the restaurant. Opheem was not just dinner, it was thrilling and fun. We left feeling special and treated, ready to tell anyone who would listen to what a good time we had.
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